Friday, September 4, 2009

From Britain, Food for Thought

Published in The L.A. Times, OpEd, September 15, 2005
    “IT CONTAINED more lumps, hairs and unexplained black things than one would have thought possible,” wrote George Orwell half a century ago about his English school food. But Orwell didn’t know how lucky he was.
      Over the last 20 years in Britain, his porridge lunch was replaced with processed, additive-ridden fare such as Turkey Twizzlers — 30% turkey, 70% other, shaped like Shirley Temple’s ringlets — that makes his lunch seem almost nutritious. And the number of obese children has tripled in those 20 years. Obesity rates in Britain — 22% — are second only to the United States.
 About a year ago, celebrity chef Jamie Oliver (the “Naked Chef” — the ingredients were stripped down, not him) thought drastic action was needed; not just long-range policy changes but triage. In a Channel 4 series called “Jamie’s School Dinners,” Oliver took charge of school lunches in one school, then two schools and then the entire London borough of Greenwich, with 60 schools and 20,000 school meals per day. Oliver’s aim was not just to improve kids’ health; he wanted to show the government that it could be done, and fast.
 Even the schools’ catering staffs agreed that change was in order. The most ardent resisters were the kids — they liked the junk. In the show, one boy said he’ll take “anything that you can cook with grease.” Faced with vegetable-tainted food, one girl said, “I’ll starve.” It took six months of cajoling, with no alternative menu, to win over the kids at the first school. The parents sent hate mail. The kids chanted, “Jamie Oliver go away.” On the first day, more than 100 students wouldn’t touch the food. On the last day, only two children didn’t eat with obvious relish.
 The frozen, processed meat from Botswana was replaced by local, organic fresh meat in identifiable forms, such as thigh, breast and leg. Many of the children had never seen meat this way, even at home. Many had had few encounters with a vegetable. But the deep fryer was abandoned and the catering staff, or “dinner ladies” as they’re called here, picked up long-forsaken produce. In the end, it all came to the same price as the processed food, give or take a few pennies: about 65 cents per lunch.
 One menu was cannelloni stuffed with cheese and spinach, Thai chicken curry with butternut squash, chickpea and leek soup. Sometimes, Oliver learned, trickery helps: The pasta sauce hides seven vegetables.
 As a result of the show, and the surge of support that followed, the government promised to spend more than $500 million to improve school meals throughout Britain. Many districts banned Turkey Twizzlers.
 On Wednesday, I joined some 9-year-old girls at the Charlton Manor Primary School in Greenwich for lunch. I sampled fish fillet with breadcrumbs, sweet and sour chicken, coleslaw, salad with balsamic dressing, cooked fresh peas and, for dessert, a warm, mildly sweet rice pudding with pineapple. We all finished our plates.
 The head chef told me she could finally stand behind the food she was serving. The school planted a garden. The teachers report that their classrooms are now calmer after lunch. The school taught nutrition before, but the theory was without resonance before the kids could feel the difference.
 The girls fumbled with their knives and forks, and the teachers corrected them; they’d never really had to use cutlery with the old processed meals. I thought of what Alice Waters, owner of Chez Panisse restaurant and founder of the cutting-edge Edible Schoolyard project in Berkeley, calls “the civilizing and socializing effect of the table.” I asked the girls if they’d take their Twizzlers back. They said yes. But at the same time, they seemed happily resigned to their healthy fate.
 Steps are being taken to combat obesity in California too. Today, a summit in Sacramento will address childhood health and nutrition. Last week, state lawmakers passed legislation that bans the sale of sodas on campuses during school hours.
 But if a TV show can change the way thousands of children eat and how a nation thinks about food, what will it take to do the same in California, where almost a third of the children are overweight? Maybe we need to enlist a battalion of celebrity chefs, call in the camera crews and find out. If reality TV can serve people, rather than just entertain them, let’s use it now.


  1. Hi Lisa, This is Blake... I have been trying to reach you at the number you gave me and have been unsuccessful. Please contact me as soon as you can. (727)510-6017 or Thanks.

  2. Just a suggestion. Why don't you try out to add some pictures with your essays...just being a little illustrative.

    Great essays!


  3. I stumbled on this page by case, and I read your post. Remind me when I moved to NY from Italy, from a smallest town in the North East, trying to convince my friends about the differences in the Olive Oils and different kind of mineral waters.

    I agree with you. Food is also education, I would say, an art, and as every art it requires initiation. It's like Classical Music.

    How possibly can kids understand it if nobody tells them and explain things?


  4. So you are the daughter of probably the most creative and successful man in the last 50 years and you have the most boring blog layout ever?

    Christ at least don't host it on a Google platform. Unless..are you sending a message?


    I'm not at all a Fanboy.

    1. Did your father was taxi driver? I wish you a fully life.

  5. I like the simplicity of the layout! Wonderful writing.

    And ignore webcabbie. “Any fool can criticize, condemn and complain, and most fools do.” Benjamin Franklin


  6. I like to write...not too much training though...I wanted to take a taste of yours. I liked what I read and would love to see your ideas take hold.

    Words are the camera of the mind.

  7. Brilliant piece...makes me hungry for more.

  8. I really enjoy your writings. Pleasing and profound; I imagine you having a great personality with a lovely and meaningful outlook on life. Congratulations.

  9. For death is no more than a turning of us over from time to eternity. ~William Penn

    Some people come into our lives and leave footprints on our hearts
    and we are never ever the same.
    - Flavia Weedn

    Everybody wants to go to heaven, but nobody wants to die.
    Joe Louis

  10. Hi, where did you get the statistic about a third of the kids in Ca being overweight? I would like to use that but I need to back it up with a source. We are debating the Danish surtax on fattening foods like butter, and whether it is a good idea. The "heavy" people seem to be the most upset about it.

  11. Faisal, if only "fat" was the sole reason of obesity. A little less butter on your white toast bread won't do it. The human body needs fat, and a considerable amount of it, in order to function. Education is the way to fight obesity. People need to know more about the food they're eating. For instance, olive oil and fat fish isn't considered "unhealthy", so why put taxes on it? We need to eat less and more varied food. I'm also from Denmark, and for instance I think it's brilliant that we've marked healthy food with a green key hole in order to make it easier for consumers to pick out better solution for their diet.

  12. One more remark. It's not just heavy people who complain about the extra tax. In fact many Danes complain that they have to pay extra for ordinary foods because SOME people in this country are obese. And that makes perfect sense to me. I eat relatively healthy, and now I have to pay a fortune at the super market because someone else is eating too much. I would gladly pay the extra money if it worked, but I don't think it will. Kind regards

  13. I'm also a writer but I happen to also start and operate programs to plant fruit in schoolyards and other public places in NYC:

    I'd love to take you kayaking or biking to see them.

    Warm regards,

    Erik Baard

  14. Was that a sales pitch, my friend?

  15. lisa, i love the way you write. thank you.

  16. I am trying to overhaul the food served at my daughter's school in Brooklyn, NY. Your essay prompted me to reach out to Jamie Oliver whose resources have been enormously helpful, so thank you. I enjoy your writing and wish you all the best.

  17. Its now 15 years later here in the UK how about writing a follow up article? See if things have changed or reverted back? Publish some more work please.

    Chris, Manchester, UK